African Safari Update # 15
Fall 2000
In this issue:
- From the editors desk
- Safaris to Tanzania
- Safaris in Southern Africa
- Best of Southern Africa Fly-in Safari
- Okavango and Linyanti Adventure
- Birding tours to Kenya & New Zealand
- Report on Ruckomechi Camp and the Mana Canoe Trail, Zimbabwe
- Newsletter Archive
From the Editors Desk Over the last 20 years I have done many safaris in Southern Africa, to Kruger Park & all the other parks in South Africa including Kalahari Gemsbok, also to Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe several times. Of all these, my visits to Botswana, especially the Okavango Delta, Moremi & Linyanti, stand out in terms of experiencing Africa in a very personal, intimate way. Few other people, few other vehicles, just you and the guide and the terrain and an amazing variety of wildlife often seen so close you can smell them. So I was very skeptical about Tanzania before my recent (April 2000) first visit there. I need not have worried. Admittedly I traveled in the off-season, but the much anticipated 'crowds of people' never materialized, only crowds of animals. I now rate Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti right up there in my 'Top Five' with the Okavango Delta, the dunes at Sossusvlei in Namibia, Cape Town's Table Bay & Mountain and Mt. Kilimanjaro.
In August 2000 I visited four major eco-systems in Kenya, namely the dry north, the Aberdare Mountains, the Rift Valley and the Maasai Mara. My conclusion! Kenya is the original and still the quintessential African safari destination. No other African country possesses its unique combination of widespread and easily accessible wildlife sanctuaries, fascinating people and culture, amazing diversity in landscape, and excellent range of accommodations catering for everybody from backpackers to folks who prefer to be pampered in super-deluxe style. Kenya is where it all started, and while other safari destinations in eastern and southern Africa may be catching up fast, Kenya is still an excellent choice for a wildlife and culture experience.We are happy to be able to offer you a wide range of camping and lodge safaris to Tanzania, ranging from moderately priced scheduled camping trips (NOT participation-style and NO AGE LIMITS!) to luxury custom lodge safaris with options to stay at wonderful lodges such as Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, Kirawira Lodge and Migration Camp. Please call or e-mail for details; itineraries of the scheduled trips available on our website. January, February and March are GREAT months to be in Northern Tanzania, so dont delay - call or e-mail today. There are also seats available on departures for the Fall of 2000.
Safari to Kenya
Our Kenya associates SAVANNAH CAMPS & LODGES own and operate small, friendly and comfortable safari camps throughout Kenya's most fascinating eco-systems. Each camp and lodge has highly trained resident guides to interpret the abundant wildlife for you. By using specially designed four wheel vehicles they are able to incorporate game drives into your itinerary, into areas totally inaccessible to the more general tourists in less powerful vehicles, giving total flexibility and privacy. Meanwhile, their experienced management staff will prepare delicious meals and look after all of your needs and expectations whilst back at the camp.
Together these properties offer the perfect introduction to the Best of East Africa:
the edge of the Malindi Marine Park.
- Africa's unique Afro-alpine environment can be explored from Sangare Ranch, in the Aberdare Mountains.
- Delameres Camp on the shores of Lake Elmenteita is in the Rift Valley, the greatest fissure on the Earth surface with the world's greatest bird spectacle.
- Obviously one must visit the Maasai Mara - Africas greatest game-viewing spectacle.
- Lewa Downs in the north of Kenya is one of East Africa's most successful private conservancies and Black Rhino breeding sanctuaries.
- Indian Ocean Lodge is one of the most charming and isolated hideaways ideally situated on
These camps & lodges are in my opinion ideal; they offer a good blend of affordable luxury without being 'over the top, yet maintaining the old 'Out of Africa' style camping safari atmosphere.
For more information, please check out the following: Kenya Trip Report - August 2000 12-day Savannah Safari 13-day Birdventures Safari 8-day Gameventures Safari
We still have limited space available on small-group safaris in Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe for this Fall - guests are returning with rave reviews of especially the Jacana Safari in Botswana, and the Mana Canoe Trail in Zimbabwe. Go and see what its all about! Bookings are now open for the 2001 season as well - and in many instances prices have actually been reduced. So by all means call or e-mail for a brochure or details about a specific safari. It is never too early to book a fly-in safari at the permanent tented camps in Botswana - we are already taking reservations as far ahead as Sept. 2001!
For 2001, my associates Wilderness Safaris are offering two excellent new fly-in safaris in Southern Africa; these will both be fully guided, scheduled small-group trips with NO AGE LIMITS.
Best of Southern Africa Fly-in Safari - 12 nights/13 days
This is a superb new 13-day flying safari where one small group of guests, travels through the prime habitats of southern Africa staying in the best camps such as Mombo and Jao. One fast, twin-engine aircraft departs from Johannesburg and guests have the plane with them all the way through this safari, eliminating the delays & wasted time associated with scheduled airlines. Guests experience the very best camps and areas of Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Mana Pools, before returning to Johannesburg. A great pilot / guide will be on board to host guests on their safari backed up by great local guides at each camp. This is an all-inclusive safari except for departure taxes and visas. NO AGE LIMITS. Monthly departures from March 2001. Click here for more details.
Okavango and Linyanti Adventure - 6 nights/7 days
The Okavango & Linyanti Adventure is a new scheduled guided safari in the Okavango Delta and Linyanti, for 2001. Guests spend two nights in a water camp, two nights in a land camp, and two nights in a Linyanti camp. Guests will be accompanied by a guide throughout the safari. Ideally, this safari can be combined with either a Best of Namibia Wing Safari (6 nights/7 days) or a Skeleton Coast fly-in (3 nights/4 days). The Okavango & Linyanti Adventure is the ideal core Botswana fly-in safari for people who prefer to go with a small group or are traveling on their own. Monthly departures from January 2001. NO AGE LIMITS. Click here for more details.
Birding tours to Kenya & New Zealand
Please call or write for itineraries & other details of two upcoming bird tours:
February 18 to March 3, 2001: Kenya Birdventures including 3 nights at Kakamega forest and 3 nights at Mara River Camp. Max. group size 6. $3,295.00 per person in twin room from Nairobi. Single supplement is $600.00. I will be accompanying this group with a highly respected local Kenya bird guide. Click here for detailed itinerary.
March 7 to 25, 2001: New Zealand with Glen Holland. $2,880.p.p. sharing from Auckland to Christchurch, group size max. seven. Glen Holland wowed several of my clients on two bird trips in South Africa a few years ago. He is now doing the same thing in New Zealand!
TANZANIA IMPRESSIONS
THE CLASSIC VIEW OF MT. KILIMANJAROMy first two nights in Tanzania (March 2000) were spent at Kibo Safaris private camp site at Isinya, an area which is in the same ecosystem as Amboseli, which is just across the border in Kenya. Very early on my first morning in Tanzania, I stumbled out of my tent, all thoughts and actions focused on the pot of freshly brewed coffee waiting for me on a small table to the left of the tent. Having poured myself a cup, I sat down on a canvas safari chair, staring somewhat mindlessly at a dense grove of fever trees, from the base of which the sunlight seemed to emerge. Suddenly remembering where I was, I turned my head just slightly to the right and looked up, and there it was - Mt. Kilimanjaro bigger than Dallas, perfectly lit by the morning sun. For a truly magical few minutes, Kilimanjaro loomed over the sunrise in full view, snow-capped just like in the guide-books, until some pesky clouds took it away. I could have spent an entire morning just sitting there, watching Kili come and go, listening to the birds, and marveling at the giant acacia Tortilis trees which dominate the area. At Isinya, there is no mistaking the fact that you are in Africa.
WILDEBEEST MIGRATION ON THE SERENGETI
Yes, Virginia there is a wildebeest migration and it is showing right now, somewhere in the theater of the vast Serengeti Plains. And what a picture it is. My first thought upon gazing out over thousands of wildebeest was that in the face of a spectacle like that, all technology fails. There is no camera or other device which can do justice to such a scene, all sound and fury in a 360 degree arc, non-stop movement and action as the wildebeest succumb to instinct and follow the rain across the Serengetis sea of grass. Parting ahead of us like water around the prow of a boat, the wildebeest in their hundreds practically engulfed our vehicle, splashing across the muddy, wet shortgrass plains in the Ndutu area. Sounding like a bunch of bullfrogs on steroids, grunting and carrying on something fierce, they bulldozed ahead, seemingly mindless of the rogue hyenas and lions lurking all around. In the space of a couple of hours or so, we must have seen between 200,000 and 300,000 wildebeest. Unbelievable, amazing.
Earlier, in the northern and western sections of the Serengeti, the game-viewing had been very good, considering that we were essentially in transit between lodges, and not on a leisurely game-drive. We enjoyed many sightings of topi, wildebeest, hartebeest, zebra, impala, Thomsons and Grants gazelles, and several large groups of giraffe in various locations. We also enjoyed scattered sightings of elephants, and some excellent views of lions, which we bumped into on at least five occasions in a short period of time. There were small (and large) groups of hyenas all over the place, we probably saw more than 50 hyenas in the Serengeti in two days of pretty hard driving between camps. A serval cat right by the road put up quite a performance for us, flexing its large ears in an attempt to pick up the sound of its prey. Just south of the Simba Hills, Arnold spotted a cheetah in the short grass plains. It climbed up onto anthills very close to our vehicle several times, trying to judge the distance between itself and some very nervous nearby Tommies and warthogs. Near Seronera, we got really lucky and found a leopard just as it was clambering down from a large tree into the grass, disappearing quickly. The Seronera Valley is an important transition zone or ecotone, between the southern plains and the northern woodland of the Serengeti. It has year-round water and is perhaps the most reliable area in the park to view wildlife.
NGORONGORO CRATER.
It is probably a bit passé to describe Ngorongoro Crater as a Garden of Eden, or the Shangri-La of wildlife, but both descriptions fit. Ngorongoro Crater is one of those exceptional natural places on earth where reality exceeds expectation. Vague images that had formed in my mind over many years of anticipation were instantly reframed and focused, upon my first view of the crater, from the top of the descent road. It turns out that my mental picture of the place had been a pale, monochromatic reproduction of this vibrant, colorful masterpiece. Indeed, Ngorongoro Crater belongs squarely in that rather over-crowded pantheon of natural wonders of the world. If you have not been there already, by all means go and see it for yourself - soon.
Here, in an area of just about 10 miles square, you essentially have a microcosm of practically all the natural habitats of East Africa: lakes, marshes, rivers, grassy plains, woodland, forest and hills. For such a small area, the crater (more correctly a caldera), is extremely productive and as a result it sustains large numbers of an amazing variety of animals and birds. Ngorongoro Crater was truly superb - and so few other people in low season! What a thrill it was to see the rare and endangered Black Rhino on both our trips onto the Crater floor. The rhino were not very close to the road, but being birders, we had a telescope handy so we were able to pull them up nice and close in the Kowa. The rhino was #5 on our Big Five list, and we had managed to find elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard and rhino in the space of about 48 hrs. Quite a thrill.
Sunday, April 2, was a great morning to find oneself on the floor of the crater. In the crisp, clear morning light the zebra, eland and buffalo which we saw on the way down, appeared startlingly bright, as if someone had just given them a fresh coat of paint. Then, in the distance, we noticed a female cheetah and her three youngsters walking away from a male lion, which they had just spotted. At a steady pace the four cheetah walked in our direction from our right to our left, periodically peering over their right shoulders. We had a grandstand view, with the mountain in the background providing a perfect backdrop. The female cheetah was interested in only one thing and that was to put as much distance as it could, between itself and the lion. Food, as in hunting, was definitely not on its mind. The other animals on the crater floor seemed to realize that too. The many Thomsons and Grants Gazelles, zebras and wildebeest in the area were somewhat nervous but they didnt take flight, letting the cheetah foursome walk right by them. I suppose this is what makes game-viewing on an African safari so much fun: even when nothing happens, it can be spectacular!
WHAT TO EXPECT IN TANZANIA
What to expect in Tanzania? Very warm hospitality, for one thing. Without exception, the people I met seemed genuinely happy to have me as a visitor in their country. You can also expect to see wonderful and abundant wildlife, magnificent scenery and great accommodations. Culturally and socio-economically, Tanzania is very diverse. While you may see late model BMWs running around Arusha, in the outlying areas it quickly becomes clear that Tanzania is not a rich country where people have a lot of stuff, like in the United States. Life is simple, luxuries are few and there is little that goes wasted. Sometimes things dont work, the electricity may go off unexpectedly, and road network is definitely an oxymoron. But there is no reason to be apprehensive, as long as you are armed with a bit of patience and good humor. I have found that people who are enthusiastic about their first visit to Africa always have a wonderful time, despite the occasional little glitches which sometimes affect a trip in a continent where telephone service and other means of communications are woefully inadequate, in the remote areas.
My best advice is to leave the watch at home, relax and expect the unexpected! In Tanzania I am sure you will quickly hear the expression Karibu Tanzania when things do not go exactly 100% as planned or anticipated. In other words, Welcome to Tanzania... Yet I think the vast majority of visitors lasting memory of Tanzania is bound to be one of smiling faces and young hands held aloft in a friendly wave. Asanté Sana! Call us today at 800/513-5222 & ask for an itinerary. For complete Tanzania trip report and itineraries, click here.
Report on Ruckomechi Camp and the Mana Canoe Trail, Zimbabwe
By Garth Thompson
[Rukomechi was the reason that my wife and I moved down into the Zambezi Valley from Hwange some 17 years ago. It was extremely interesting for me to see how the evolution of tourism has changed this camp from what it was when we purchased it, to what it is now!
The Sefofane pilot met me at the Harare domestic terminal as arranged at 09:00. There were other pax that were going to Water Wilderness, we flew to Kiplings airstrip to drop them off and collected another 3 pax, destined for Chikwenya. Brendan, the Sefofane pilot informed us that the flight would take 1 hour and 20 minutes to Kiplings. He was well turned out and informative about our flight.
From Kiplings strip, we flew across Lake Kariba towards the Rukomechi strip on the Western border of Mana Pools National Park. This flight was to take 40 minutes. The highlight of this flight was an overfly of Kariba Dam wall, which still has one gate open, expelling 330 000 gallons (1,518,000 litres) of water every second. It was quite a sight to see this massive curve of concrete (which was the largest man made structure on earth in 1958, other than the pyramids) encircled by a rainbow from the spray that rose from the gorge below.
I was met at the Rukomechi airstrip by Carl Nicholas, resident professional guide and camp manager. This new airstrip which is only 4 kms from camp has made transfers into Rukomechi, quick, efficient and enjoyable. We encountered a lot of general game on our 15-minute drive to camp, where we were welcomed by Carls fiancée, Louise Bradshaw. A damp face cloth and ice cold drink was on offer to freshen up after the drive.
Accommodation
Rukomechi underwent a total refurb (the fourth in its 20 year history) in 1998. The 10 large rooms under thatch must rank among the most spacious of any camp in Zimbabwe. Each room offers two, three-quarter beds; they have adequate linen to make up 10 twins or 10 doubles. The beds are covered by a very big, square mosquito net which is dropped by camp staff at dusk. All the rooms have an outside verandah, with a large couch covered by numerous cushions. The verandahs look out onto the Zambezi River or the woodland behind camp.
Within the rooms are two large and comfortable cane chairs, a desk with writing lamp, mosquito coil, matches, candle, insect repellent spray, compressed air horn to blast in case of emergencies. An information folder with wildlife checklist covering mammals, birds, reptiles and common trees around Zimbabwes National Parks. There are open shelves and hanging space with coat hangers, a fan, fire extinguisher, iced water, glasses, safety deposit box and hammock. In the bathroom is a flush loo with a view, hot and cold shower heated by a chip boiler, wash basin, soap, shampoo, skin cream, ear buds, pot pouri and washing powder. The 10th room is the honeymoon suite, situated on the banks of the Zambezi; the only difference to this room is the addition of a bath.
Should you have the opportunity to request a room, No.9 has the best location of all. It is slightly offset from the rest, has a good view of the river, is shaded by a massive acacia tree and is part of the local elephant herds favorite route.
A new addition to Rukomechi is a well sited swimming pool on the river bank, enjoying panoramic views of the river with its 2000 foot, escarpment backdrop.
The famous Rukomechi bath is still in place on the riverbank. A new bath has been sunken into a scenic little spot, it can comfortably fit two people.
The dining room, lounge and bar area still command prize position beneath the massive stand of Acacias, which shade the entire camp.
At the time of my visit one gate was open in Kariba Dam wall (last opened 19 years ago), this heightened the river at camp by a metre (3 feet). This flush of water has scoured out the river and cleared it of its aquatic weeds. The 200 degree view from Rukomechi of the Zambezi and its islands are unsurpassed by any camp in the valley.
Wildlife
Within my first 24 hours in this area I saw no less than eighteen different mammals: this camp is renowned for its lion and leopard sightings. I was fortunate to also see 118 species of bird, quite a number considering it is the middle of winter and most the migrants are still absent
The two resident learner guides are Paul Grobelaar and Sacha Toronyi. The professional guide at present is Carl Nicholas who is sadly leaving after six years at Rukomechi. His position is being filled by Paul Ritson who will also take over as general manager. His girlfriend, Bronwhen MacCrimmon will be in charge of rooms, catering and admin. They both know the valley well, having been transferred from Chikwenya Camp, some 70 kms down stream.
My first game activity was an afternoon drive with Sacha, we left camp at 3:30 p.m. returning at 8:00 p.m. It was so refreshing to go out with such an enthusiastic guide, quite a change from some guides who guide by routine and not by enthusiasm. The following morning we left camp at 06:30 returning a little before 2:00 p.m. This obviously isnt the standard game drive times, but we both enjoyed being out, it was such a tonic to explore an area that had been my home for four years.
We encountered numerous elephant, large herds of waterbuck, impala, zebra and buffalo. In smaller numbers were kudu, eland, warthog and bushbuck. Game activities on offer are drives; morning, midday and afternoon, returning to camp with the spotlight. Walks with a licensed professional guide, river cruises on a specially designed 10 seater pontoon. Fishing excursions by speedboat, all tackle and bait are provided. All fishing is conducted on a catch and release basis.
On my second afternoon we went out for a river cruise. I am not a fan of motor boats on the Zambezi, but was highly impressed by the new addition to the Wilderness floating fleet of Honda 4 stroke outboard motors. I had never encountered these engines before. They are almost silent when idling and cruising along slowly. They do not have the exhaust fumes of the 2 stroke engines and dont leave oil slicks in the water.
The cruise afforded us good viewing of hippo and crocodile. It was exceptional for birding. We purred upstream to a heronry where a number of cormorants, darters and herons were sitting on eggs or feeding demanding young. On our return to camp we anchored close to camp and photographed the full moon rising over the acacia grove above the camp lounge and dinning room.
Conclusion
Knowing Chikwenya Camp well, I strongly believe that a combination of both Rukomechi and Chikwenya camps (two night minimum stay in both) would give a client the very best that this valley and Mana Pools can offer! Both camps are very different in design, view and habitat, because of this the experience isnt duplicated.
All game viewing vehicles are new Land Rovers with well-designed and comfortable seating. All camp staff were well turned out in unobtrusive camp uniforms. There is a warm and friendly atmosphere in camp. Each day at around 2:00p.m.the local elephant herd of approx. 8 cows and calves would come past all the rooms, drink from the river and return via the pool, lounge and dinning area, they did this on all three of the afternoons that I was there.
The draw cards for Rukomechi are the Zambezi River, the Zambian escarpment, six different vegetation types including some of Africas most beautiful acacia and mahogany forests, a diversity of wildlife resident in these various habitats, a large elephant population who are calm and relaxed around humans. A high population of lion and leopard, the opportunity to walk among the wildlife, canoe in the afternoon, fish, cruise on the Zambezi, drive and spot light. There are not many camps, which offer such a variety of safari activities.
Mana Pools Canoe Trail
For the adventurous client, there can be no better way to connect from Rukomechi to Chikwenya Camp than on a fully backed up, mobile canoe safari. The distance between both camps by river is approx. 65 kms, the entire river frontage of Mana Pools National Park.
For the past 17 years, canoe trails have been based out of Rukomechi Camp. These safaris are for a duration of 3 nights. Each day a vehicle is driven ahead, a full-tented camp is erected by a four man staff, consisting of driver, cook, waiter and tent attendant. The added attraction to this safari is the opportunity to walk into the game rich floodplains (river terraces) each day. This affords the chance to stretch legs and butt muscles, walk up to various species of wildlife and search out the diverse woodland birds. Each day, each hour and every minute is a new experience and new habitat as you float and paddle your way down stream towards Chikwenya on the Eastern boundary of Mana pools National Park. Each lunch and dinner is in a new dining room, be it beneath a shady evergreen mahogany or under a starry sky.
The Professional Guide that leads these safaris this year is Andy Ault, a young guide with 9 years experience in the tourist industry. One of the highlights of this safari was to see his genuine enjoyment and appreciation of his job, the river, canoeing and walking. Andy had an unrushed tempo (without being laid back) to his guiding, which gave us the opportunity to spend time watching all that we encountered, often sitting with a herd of animals for up to 30 minutes.
The Rukomechi Canoe Trails departs every Monday and Thursday from April to late October. All four clients that I joined on this safari, came from America. They consisted of a family of three who flew in to the Rukomechi strip on the day of the departure. The other American had been at Rukomechi for a night prior to our departure.
After lunch at Rukomechi, we drove a little way downstream to begin our canoe trip. We were given a comprehensive safety talk. Each person was issued with a litre of sealed, bottled water. Each seat had a comfortable canvas cushion, the paddles are imported from America, there was a life vest for each client. A very comprehensive, waterproof, medics box was always in the guides canoe. Andy carried a rifle and handgun; we were in radio contact with both Rukomechi and Chikwenya at all times.
Our group departed by canoe at 3:30p.m. for our first night stop at Vundu Camp. Each of the three camp sites, Vundu, Chessa and Illala are exclusive sites, all three are in excellent locations which offer good views of the river and the floodplains. The camp consists of walk in, insect proof canvas tents with large gauze windows, camp bed, sheets, blanket, duvet and pillow covered in colorful ethnic design. Towels are provided along with shampoo, shower gel, soap, skin cream, insect repellent, bottled water, glasses and a compressed air, emergency horn. Candle lanterns and matches were provided. All zips worked well; there was a canvas basin outside each tent, which was filled every morning with hot water.
The dining table was covered by an ethnic tablecloth, with tablemats at each place setting. The crockery had animal designs baked into it; the wineglasses were crystal. The table was lit by candle lanterns, which give off sufficient light. All camp staff were always well turned out in clean uniforms. When dismantling camp each day, the staff changed into overalls. All four of our staff were extremely helpful and pleasant.
Andys girlfriend Jenny Silvanderson, accompanies each safari, she overseas the catering and tent lay out, she was a pleasure to have around, always cheerful and extremely competent if her meals were any thing to go by. Every meal we had was of a very high standard. Each evening meal was preceded by a starter and finished off with desert. Lunch was taken along with us in the canoes, plus a cooler box of drinks, ice and copious amounts of bottled water. Tea, Rooibos (herbal tea) and coffee were available when in camp. Bottled water, orange and peach cordial, coke, diet coke and an assortment of other fizzy drinks, white and red local wine were on offer through out the day. At night, gin, brandy and cane spirits were available. There is no extra charge for drinks.
A standard day began with tea, coffee and biscuits around the campfire followed by a game walk for a duration of approx. one and half-hours. Returning to camp, where a full breakfast had been prepared, plus cereals and yogurts. Leaving by canoe at around 9:30. Paddling leisurely until 12:30 for lunch under a shady tree. Departing after a siesta at approx. 3:30 and arriving in camp at sunset.
Guiding
I think the guide on one of these trips is the most important aspect of all. This is due to all the hippo that one encounters and because of the walks that are taken each day. Andy inspired a lot of confidence in the group, especially the American mother who was understandably worried about her families safety among the hippo. These animals have been given excessive bad publicity by journalists trying to flower up their cheap novel articles.
Andy was calm at all times; he never took risks, understood hippo behavior very well. It was such a pleasure to be with a river guide who didnt bang on his canoe or slap the water with his paddle every time a hippo was sighted, this noisy behavior has become common place with river guides lately.
During the walks into the floodplains, he never disturbed the animals, we often watched elephant and buffalo, but all were oblivious to our presence. His knowledge of mammals, birds and plants was faultless. He had a well-measured tempo in his guiding which enabled every one to appreciate all that we saw. On top of all this he liked people, was a character in his own right and we all thoroughly enjoyed his company.
The game viewing was excellent, with numerous elephant sightings, the one afternoon we encountered 5 different breeding herds while floating down a channel, all of which, crossed right in front of our canoes. We were treated to many buffalo sightings, numerous waterbuck, impala, baboons, bushbuck, eland, warthog and zebra, not too mention a few hundred hippo spread out all the way down the river. The birdlife was spectacular both from our canoes and on walks. Our bird count was 132 species for the duration of the safari. With the river up 1 metre (three feet) because of one gate open in the wall, some 80kms up stream, many new channels were open. These channels are lined with water birds, while numerous mammal species graze on the edges.
On our last day, after a morning walk and breakfast, the family of three walked into Chikwenya camp, about three kms distant. They were staying here for a few days. The single pax and I were driven to Chikwenya airstrip for our flight. The distance to the airstrip is about 5 kms.
Comments
No short cuts have been taken in the standard of all the equipment. Excellent presentation. Food, as good as any safari camp. Wildlife, the best I encountered in my eight-day inspection. Guiding would have been difficult to surpass. The clients were ecstatic about their trip; they couldnt get over the standard of food and comfort and were appreciative of the safety and confidence that Andy created.
Conclusion
A highly recommended operation. An excellent combination with Rukomechi and Chikwenya. Spending one night at Rukomechi at the beginning allows the client to settle into the area and Zambezi River habitat. A night at Chikwenya at the end of the safari gives the opportunity to enjoy the after glow of the canoe trip in the luxury and comfort that this camp offers. Tame down a little, do a drive or cruise, have a long shower and get laundry done.
Five nights is not too long in this area, i.e. one night Rukomechi, three nights Canoe Trail and one night Chikwenya. I believe it is the best combination that this area can offer, obviously not everyone wants to canoe, but for those that do, very little can surpass this combination.
For further information on any of the above items please contact:
Fish Eagle Safaris
11152 Westheimer #150
Houston, TX 77042
Tel 1-800-513-5222 (USA and Canada)
Tel 713-467-5222 (from outside North America)
Fax 713/467-3208
E-mail: info@fisheaglesafaris.com
Fly-In Safaris
Information Request Form / Client Testimonials / Home
Fish Eagle Safaris
11152 Westheimer #150
Houston, TX 77042
Tel 1-800-513-5222 (USA and Canada)
Tel 713-467-5222 (from outside North America)
Fax 713/467-3208
E-mail: info@fisheaglesafaris.com
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