In this issue:
For those of you considering 'last minute' travel this fall, game-viewing conditions in much of Southern Africa and particularly in Botswana continue to be as good as ever. To give you an idea of current conditions, here is what guide Garth Thompson had to say about 24 hours in N. Botswana's Linyanti Concession last week:
"I arrived at Kings Pool Camp exactly 24 hours ago from River Club. We were welcomed into the airstrip by giraffe, hippos, elephants and then 4 adult and 4 young wild dogs three minutes from the strip. After a quick tea we then went out to see the dogs again, followed by a herd of about 200 buffalo, giraffe, kudu, impala, lechwe etc. then a young male leopard well before sunset. While enjoying observing him on a termite mound, we spotted his mother feeding on a large baboon. She then displayed to us in a massive leadwood tree, before draping herself across a large bough. He then joined her and fed for us at every angle, with her in close attendance. Two and a half hours later we left, around 8:00 pm, we then moved on to a large male lion, followed by a wild cat, then a spectacular serval, genet, another wild cat, two different families of bat eared foxes before returning to camp for dinner at 9:30. Ryan and crew were most accommodating with us being late for dinner; another vehicle which actually came in after us also had a mind blowing afternoon.
 A Leopard cub at Mombo Camp, Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana |
Unfortunately we 'had' to sleep and then off to inspect Linyanti Tented Camp. We have just returned from there, having seen at least a thousand elephant driving there and back. Not to mention two lion sightings of a pride of nine, 9 roan antelope, 12 sable, 10 tsessebe, brilliant birds and all the other general game. At Linyanti Tented Camp we had about 100 elephants come down to drink, so we took a canoe and went off to pay them a visit. Not only did they reward us handsomely but it was so good to get into a canoe again, something I wasn't expecting. So here I am 24 hours later, having already blown the 8 rolls of film that you gave me, but with 10 more days to go! Sorry must go out again, am off to Savuti tomorrow."
So if you can travel this fall or winter, you can take advantage of the lower 'shoulder season' prices & discounted trans-Atlantic airfares on South African Airways. There are still seats available on small-group scheduled trips in Botswana such as the Jacana Safari, Mopane Safari & Botswana Explorer. In Namibia, we have space available on the Toktokkie Safari, as well as the Namibia in Style trips as well as on the Skeleton Coast Safaris and 'Best of Namibia' Wing Safaris. There is still a fair amount of space in the Botswana camps, for much less than the high season prices. So please call or e-mail for more details.
SOUTH AFRICA - FROM INTERNATIONAL PARIAH TO 'FLAVOR OF THE MONTH' DESTINATION
 Rhino seen at Ndumo Wilderness Lodge, South Africa |
How the wheel turns! When I emigrated from South Africa to the USA with my family, in late 1989, South Africa was literally on fire, and becoming increasingly ungovernable. Rioting was practically endemic, a generation of youngsters were staying out of school, and international isolation was growing by the day. Tourism was at an all-time low, especially from the USA, from which all direct flights had been suspended. Then came the release of Nelson Mandela in early 1990 from decades-long political imprisonment and things almost immediately took a turn for the better. By 1994, South Africa had a new government and despite some nagging problems such as crime, unemployment and the Aids epidemic, the country has never looked back. Displaying a rare sense of shared destiny, South Africa's multicultural population has - against all odds - avoided internecine strife such as we are seeing in the Middle East. Looking back upon the country's history, it is interesting to note that despite South Africa's abysmal civil rights track record, the country has enjoyed almost unfettered religious freedom, even during the darkest days of apartheid. Whatever the reason, South Africa's 'Rainbow Nation' seems to be getting along just fine, and working to overcome their problems. They have also made major strides towards improving the tourism infrastructure, such as by upgrading the airports and opening up some of the National Parks for joint ventures with the private sector.
South Africa's Tourism Board has for many decades marketed the country as 'A World in one Country' and it is only a minor exaggeration. The country truly does offer an almost amazing diversity of landscapes, ecosystems, wildlife, cultural experiences, adventure activities as well as world-class restaurants, a sophisticated wine industry, and interesting shopping opportunities. Over the last couple of decades, tourism facilities and accommodations have taken huge strides to the point where even the most demanding of tastes can now be satisfied in 5-star deluxe establishments, with service to match. Those of you who have had the pleasure of staying at one of the Grace properties, at MalaMala, Singita, the Grande Roche or have taken a trip on the Blue Train, will know what I am talking about.
Even so, places such as Kruger Park and many other National Parks and budget accommodations all over the country, make South Africa a very affordable destination and the best choice by far, of any budget safari destination. While the rates at the various Kruger Park camps have gone up a lot over the last few years, they are still a steal. Take, for example, the brand new safari tents available at Tamboti Tented Camp in the central part of the park. Unlike the existing 30 safari tents in the camp, which have communal bathrooms and kitchens, these new units are fully equipped and have luxury furnishings, linen and decor. Each has one double bed, one single sleeper couch, an en suite shower, kitchenette, a verandah with barbecue facilities and covered parking. The price? Less than $50.00 per night for 2 persons and only $15.00 for a third person. These units overlook the Timbavati Riverbed.
Many people now see South Africa as a relatively safe destination - and the area least likely to be affected by continued conflict in the middle East. However, it is very much PRICE that has made South Africa as popular as it has lately been. Recently, for example, we were are asked by a family group of 5 persons to put together a trip including several days in the Cape, about a week in the Zululand and St. Lucia area, and a few days at a private game reserve adjacent to Kruger Park. Selecting a range of moderately priced establishments, we designed a tour of 13 days at a price of $1,900.00 p.p. sharing, including two intra-African scheduled flights. The lead client wrote as follows upon their return: "We all just wanted to thank you for the most unbelievable trip to South Africa. Words cannot explain the experience we all had! Your planning is impeccable, and every minute worked according to plan! All of the accommodations were superb - Tanda Tula, Makakatana Bay Lodge, and Olaf's at the top of the list. The people, rangers, tour guides, & staff were incredible, knowledgeable, helpful and wonderful. Food was out of this world - I think we all gained a few too many pounds! All in all, a trip we will all remember for a lifetime! We can't thank you enough for all of your planning and patience. The trip would not have been the same without it."
Due to the current exchange rate of the South African Rand to the US Dollar (and Canadian Dollar), South Africa currently offers exceptionally good value for money. Depending upon the properties selected, this 11-day safari including a premier private game reserve adjacent to Kruger Park, Ndumo & Rocktail Bay in KwaZulu-Natal, and several days in Cape Town with private guided tours, costs around $2,000.00 to $2,500.00 p.p. for land arrangements.
You can start this itinerary on any day of the week (no set departures) and it can also be amended for example by substituting any of the camps, adding an extra day here or there, omitting something, etc. So it is totally flexible and can also be done in the other direction, i.e. starting in Cape Town and progressing northwards from there.
You will essentially be traveling independently, but all transfers and some private tours and other excursions, together with full board accommodation at the various camps and bed & breakfast accommodation in Johannesburg & Cape Town, are included. Activities (for example at places such as MalaMala and Ndumo Game Reserve) will be enjoyed in open 4-Wheel Drive vehicles with very experienced, knowledgeable guides and (in some cases) trackers present. Activities will be shared (i.e. with other persons staying at a particular camp), and at some of the camps (such as Ndumo and Rocktail Bay) meals are taken together around a large table - the camps sleep a maximum of 16 persons.
The main advantages of the trip are the following:
 Jacana camp jetty |
NEW BOTSWANA ACTIVITIES FOR 2003
My associates Wilderness Safaris are introducing two exciting new culture & soft adventure activities in Botswana for the 2003 season. They are opening up Gudigwa Camp on behalf of a community in Botswana, where guests will be able to learn more about the Culture of the "Bukakhwe" San Bushman, and they are introducing a 2-night/3-day 'camping wild' walking trail from Xigera Camp, where guests will walk with a professional guide in the direction of Mombo.
The new Gudigwa Camp offers guests on safari the opportunity to experience the cultural richness of Botswana. Gudigwa village is a settlement of 800 "Bukakhwe" San Bushman or "people of the dry country". The Bukakhwe people are indigenous to the Okavango Delta, and though their physical attributes vary from the Bushman tribes of the Kalahari, their traditional ways of living off the land are very much the same. The Gudigwa experience highlights the intimate connection between the Bukakhwe people's cultural heritage and the natural environment. By sharing this linkage with their guests, they are reviving a dying culture and passing on intricate knowledge to the future generations within the village. Activities focus around various aspects of both traditional and modern life in Botswana. Walks will reveal the secrets of the bush and guests will learn about the medicinal uses of plants, discover where to find underground water, and will be given basic tips of how to survive off of nature's abundant resources. Villagers will perform traditional dances and songs, tell animated stories in their mother tongue - a language of "clicks" and guttural tones - and will cook local dishes for guests to sample. Guests stay in large, cozy grass huts made from local materials and modeled after traditional Bushman shelters. Each of the 8 units has comfortable beds and linen, solar lighting and its own enclosed toilet and hot shower.
The new Xigera Mokoro Trail is for guests who want a genuine camping experience in the Okavango. For travelers seeking new adventures, there is no better way to experience the Okavango than to camp out on its remote islands. These safaris will operate every three days from early May to the end of October to fit in with the rise and fall of the annual flood. Each group heads out from Xigera and camps wild on remote islands in the Okavango with an experienced guide. Guests sleep in small tents and on comfortable bedrolls with sheets etc. and we cook around a fire. We will head in the direction of Mombo on this trail - so the game experiences and walks will be good. Some of the mokoros carry the camping equipment, drinks and food while others carry the guests and their personal luggage so the group is totally self contained and can operate at its own pace and needs.
We stop for a picnic lunch on the first day and find an island on which to make camp by mid afternoon. The paddlers set up the camp and all meals are cooked on the campfire. There are bucket showers and a "long drop" toilet. The tents are specially designed with the top made out of netting so one does not lose the feeling of sleeping out under the stars but are still safe and secure tucked up for the night in comfortable bedrolls with duvets and pillows. After an early breakfast and walk, while the paddlers break camp and load the mokoros, we set off for another island, enjoying the Delta and its wildlife whilst relaxing in the dugouts. Stops along the way to walk and explore anything of interest, are the norm and the rhythm and pace depend on what is happening at that moment. On the last morning we pack up our personal luggage and head back to the airstrip (arriving around 13h00) for the flight transfer out. Each trip will be accompanied by a pro guide, mokoro polers and a cook/camp hand and is fully serviced (i.e. not participation camping style).
NEW CAMPS OPEN IN NAMIBIA AND BOTSWANA
 Tubu Camp deck area |
Recently opened new camps in the Wilderness group include Little Kulala (at Sossusvlei) and Tubu Tree Camp (in the Okavango). Both are spectacular camps and can be viewed on their website at www.wilderness-safaris.com. Click onto the slide library down the bottom left of the main page and then click onto either the Namibian camps for Little Kulala or Botswana camps for Tubu Tree Camp.
Little Kulala is a great new camp that has some of the design features from Kulala Desert Lodge - but is verging on a "Premier Wilderness" quality. With 8 rooms, each with a small plunge pool, it is their top camp in the region alongside Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp
Tubu Tree Camp is a superb new mixed activity camp in the Jao Concession, with great views of the floodplains. It only has five rooms and is raised off the ground by about 2 metres. The camp should be priced as a Classic Camp but guests get it at Vintage prices. Guests can save the cost of an airfare and reduce the cost of the safari by combining Jacana Camp and Tubu Camp on one itinerary. We include the transfer between these two camps by vehicle and / or mokoros for free. Jacana is a classic 'water' camp and Tubu Tree Camp is more of a 'land' camp and despite their relative proximity, they are very different in character and even more so in terms of activities. Jacana Camp is an incredible little camp with so much character and atmosphere. At its price it is a steal when one weighs up the experience guests get there (and all the drinks etc. are included).
Chitabe and Chitabe Trails re-opened again in August after the fire and Chitabe is looking and functioning even better than the old Chitabe. Wilderness Safaris were able improve the layout of Chitabe's lounge and dining area, and Chitabe now also has a bigger and sexier honeymoon tent. With all the old, tall grass in the plains burnt off in the fire - and with lots of green shoots everywhere, the game has pulled into the area in large quantities.
The "Vintage Wilderness" circuit has certainly been a hit this year and we are having record occupancies at Jacana, Linyanti Tented Camp, Kaparota, Linyanti Tented Camp and Pom Pom. Tubu Tree has been well accepted even in its first year. We have been including many of these camps in fly-in safaris with great success, so please give us a call for more information about these moderately priced properties.
ROCKTAIL BAY LODGE, SOUTH AFRICA
 Leopard in a tree |
Wilderness Safaris guide Conrad Hennig was recently in Rocktail Bay and sent us a very enthusiastic report about the diving there. Rocktail Bay Lodge is continually re-inventing itself and is turning out to be one of Southern Africa's finest beach and
diving experiences. There is something like 40km of pristine and undeveloped beaches there and the activities are many and varied. Rocktail Bay has all the ingredients for a wonderful beach and coastal forest experience with truly the best diving in South Africa..... and a stay only costs about $140.00 p.p. per night with three meals a day and most activities included!
"I just wanted you guys to get feedback from my weekend down at Rocktail Bay Lodge. To say the least, I nearly did not come back yesterday. Picture this: balmy calm, waves less than a half a meter, 27-28 degree water, close on 30 meter visibility. I did not dive with a wetsuit it was so warm and balmy! In fact conditions were so amazing we did a 67 minute dive on Regal, went dolphin snorkelling twice, and saw the Ragged tooth shark at Island Rock (on snorkel!). Adam Cruise from National Geographic simply got the most INCREDIBLE footage on film. On one dive, we saw the mother of all Leatherbacks (about 2.4m), who was ' X' tagged, meaning she was the oldest of the season (last tagged in about 1981, the lodge still checking out), and had not been seen for the season, to date. Then we saw and helped out some hatchlings from their nest - Adam managed to get the exact moment as they broke through the sand surface. Then a day later the guys found a nest with "club-footed" hatchlings (probably a genetic default; they would not have made it), so we took them in a cooler box back to the lodge. Next day we took the box on the boat with us, and went to a new dive reef that I have not dived to date, Brewer's Garden. Extraordinary dive - just the most amazing corals and bommies. But at the surface, Adam went down to about 2m on SCUBA, and Darryl took the hatchlings and gently put them in the water. Adam managed to film the hatchlings from underneath, swimming in the sea, and diving down two meters towards the camera!
 A beach at North Island, Seychelles |
The opening date for North Island Lodge is set at 1 March 2003 and the camp is looking truly special! Check out the progress on www.north-island.com. As an opening special, we are reducing the rate by 20% for March, April and May 2003 - in June we go back to normal prices.
North Island is one of forty inner granitic islands of the Seychelles that are located around the two main islands of Mahé and Praslin. North Island provides a sanctuary for guests seeking an unspoiled tropical haven of peace and tranquillity. The island offers four beaches that are located at each end of the compass and is able to ensure a wonderful year-round tropical beach and island experience. Facilities include 12 handcrafted air-conditioned guest villas. There are a central dining room, lounge and library; a beautifully located health spa and gym; a breathtakingly beautiful swimming pool hewn into a granitic outcrop and a sunset bar and restaurant tucked away on the western side of the island.
Each villa is completely self-contained and comprises a luxuriously proportioned bedroom; a writing and change-room area with a huge en-suite bathroom and outdoor shower; overhead fans; fully retracting sliding windows and mosquito nets. The master bedroom and change room is air-conditioned. An additional study or bedroom is equipped with a DVD/CD system, Internet access and can be rearranged to accommodate children. There is a kitchen, sun deck and covered lounge area and guests may elect to eat in their villas or in the main dining room. A private plunge pool and sala completes your private sanctuary within a sanctuary. A full butler service caters for your every need from in-villa meals to picnics on secluded beaches.
Activities - some at additional cost - include swimming and sunbathing on any of the 4 private beaches, excellent snorkeling right off the beaches, reef and wall scuba diving, massage and health therapy in the Spa or in your villa, gymnasium, nature walks, deep sea and fly fishing, windsurfing, guided and supported sea kayaking, hobie sailing, yacht charter, boating trips to the neighbouring island, mountain biking or golf at Lemuria Resort on Praslin (18 hole course but requires a private helicopter transfer).
In case you still don't have it, please call or e-mail for our new 2003 brochure: lots of excellent photographs and plenty of information about many exciting trips in Southern Africa, as well as useful information about the various eco-systems & habitats, choosing the 'right' safari or camp combinations, how we host you on safari, our conservation principles, and much more.
Please call (800-513-5222) or e-mail for a copy of any of these new brochures:
For further information on any of the above items please contact:
Fish Eagle Safaris
Bert or Kathleen
Duplessis
Tel 800/513-5222
Fax 713/467-3208
Website:
www.fisheaglesafaris.com
E-mail: exafrica@aol.com
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