TANZANIA TRIP REPORT - Part 2
By Bert Duplessis
CAMPS AND LODGES
Looking out towards the Crater from the area in front of the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge, with a few of the accommodation units visible in the background. During my March/April 2000 familiarization trip with Kibo Safaris, I inspected practically every tented camp and lodge on Tanzania's northern circuit, and then some. The camps and lodges were all terrific - I was very impressed with the Serena properties in particular. I felt very comfortable and 'looked after' at each of the three Serena Lodges I stayed at; the rooms were large, spotless and very quiet. Laundry was done in next to no time: on two occasions I handed in laundry after 5pm, only to receive it back before 10pm the same night. Indeed, there are many hotels in the USA that can learn a thing or two from the Serenas as far as quality of service is concerned.
NGORONGORO SERENA
The Ngorongoro Serena Lodge is built into the hillside above the Crater, in an unobtrusive manner, the plant and ivy-covered native stone blending masterfully with its surroundings. It has good sized rooms, with large bathroom and shower en suite. There are superb views from all the rooms, and also from the dining room. I was impressed with both the quality of the food and the presentation. A nice touch, for example, was the option to have a mixed salad prepared to order, right down to having it tossed with your favorite dressing. Daily excursions take visitors in four wheel drive vehicles to the crater floor. All day tours include a picnic lunch. Special elegant luncheons can be served there upon special request. Excursions are also available to nearby Olduvai or more correctly Oldupai Gorge. Most of the 75 rooms have private terraces with views of the crater floor where countless animals make their home.
LAKE MANYARA SERENA
It is difficult to imagine a more spectacular setting for Lake Manyara Serena Lodge - on the edge of the Mto-Wa-Mbu escarpment, overlooking the Great Rift Valley and the stunning Manyara soda lake. The extraordinary birdlife has made this place world-renowned among ornithologists, who come to observe the masses of pink flamingos (unfortunately absent since the 'El Nino' literally swamped the lake a few years ago) and great birds of prey. My Kibo Safaris' guide Arnold and I observed a very rare Taita Falcon (unconfirmed) one morning, amongst many others.
The abundant birdlife inspired the design of Lake Manyara Serena Lodge, with swooping curves complemented by soft, geometric patterns; the stylish murals depict bird migration patterns. The circular shape of the buildings is a tribute to indigenous Tanzanian architectural traditions.
One of the assistant managers at the Manyara Serena spent almost half an hour with me over tea, talking about the lodge, the activities on offer (I would have loved to have done one of the birdwalks, but alas had no time) and the extensive training received by all staff members.SERENGETI SERENA LODGE
Lobo Lodge is built into a rocky 'kopje' in the northern part of the Serengeti. The Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge is set high on a hill with splendid views all around - even from the swimming pool. Like its counterparts elsewhere in Tanzania and Kenya, the setting and design of this Serena Lodge are excellent and the level of comfort, facilities, food and service justifies the premium price. It is well-known for serving the best coffee of all the Serena lodges, a fact which I can attest to. The lodge was opened in 1997 and has 66 double rooms.
The lodge design is simple but stunning. Inspired by a traditional African village, separate rondavel "huts" house the luxury guest rooms. From the overall impression to the smallest detail, the lodge is rich in local atmosphere created by indigenous handicrafts and art. Various activities are available including, wilderness breakfasts and lunches, evening talks by a naturalist and music and dances by local performers.
KIRAWIRA CAMP
I found Serena's Kirawira Camp in the Serengeti's western corridor to be absolutely spotless in every way. The camp is obviously exceedingly well managed. The whole concept of Kirawira Camp is as imaginative as it is elegant. Atop a hill overlooking the endless savanna, you will find tented luxury beyond your dreams. From this oasis of sophistication, you can survey the endless vista of the Western Serengeti and its teeming wildlife, a cooling drink in hand, served by the attentive staff. Every tent has its own private verandah and is superbly appointed. Victorian furniture gives it grace and style that contrasts with the wilderness setting. And yet, the paradox works beautifully. The open-sided architecture of the public areas keep you constantly in touch with nature. The food is a delight; the finest ingredients are used and meals are cooked to your own recipe or to order from the house cuisine. To complete your pleasure, there is an exceptional wine list, too!
GRUMETI RIVER CAMP
Nearby Grumeti River Camp (a Conscorp property) is a rather funky, but obviously very luxurious tented camp, with 10 spacious en-suite tents, overlooking a bywater of the Grumeti River where wildebeest run the gauntlet of gigantic crocodiles, during the annual migration. In this remote corner of the Serengeti plains, solar panels have replaced electrical power to eliminate noise and pollution. Gourmet meals are served in the central dining area and adjacent bar. Guides drive guests into the savanna woodlands and open Serengeti plains in search of a wide variety of big game.
MIGRATION CAMP
A camp which knocked my socks off was Migration Camp, a luxury tented camp situated in the Northern Serengeti, overlooking the Grumeti River, along a major migratory route of the Serengeti wildebeest.
One of the rooms at Migration Camp.
All Migration Camp's en-suite units are positioned on raised platforms, with sweeping views of the Grumeti River from their private balconies. The central dining area, bar and library are all positioned atop a series of cantilevered decks, maximizing the views of the game plains below. The very special honeymoon tent has an open-air spa bath, and is nestled privately behind a wild fig tree into the surrounding hills. There is also a family tent with two rooms, kids in the back.
The legendary bush cuisine at Migration Camp offers a variety of local tastes and dishes, with al fresco picnic lunches or special campfire barbecues. On the day we were there, lunch was a delicious sautéed chicken dish, delicately flavored with tarragon.
Migration Camp's new managing couple are amongst the most enthusiastic and exuberant camp managers I have met. The camp has a very intimate feel to it, with superb views over the bush. By all accounts game-viewing in the area is excellent during the migration. The highlight at Migration Camp is the 360 degree view from the lookout point where sundowners are often served, on top of a small 'kopje' behind the camp. This is a lovely camp.
KLEIN'S CAMP
In the same area, just south of Kenya's Masai Mara, is Klein's Camp, a Conscorp property which is located outside the Serengeti National Park, on a private concession set aside for the exclusive use of Klein's Camp's 16 guests. This very stylish small camp consists of ten rock and thatch cottages (rondavels), with rich wooden floors and classic interiors. Klein's Camp is set on a ridge with a commanding view over the wildebeest migration route.
Some 10 000 hectares of private land is set aside for the exclusive use of guests at this intimate camp in the north-eastern Serengeti. Guests can enjoy day and night drives and nature walks in the knowledge that there are no other humans for miles. Elephants are more common here in the woodlands than elsewhere in the Serengeti, and close encounters are frequent. For those seeking an exclusive wilderness free of the sights and sounds of any but nature's beasts, Klein's Camp offers the ultimate private safari experience.
NGORONGORO CRATER LODGE
Then, of course, there is Conservation Corporation's Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, situated on the forested southwest rim of the crater, sleeping 30 persons total in three separate camps: north (12), south (12) and Tree Camp (6). Crater Lodge combines the luxury of a bygone era with architecture inspired by the local Masai culture, and finished with carved doors and window frames in the Swahili style of Zanzibar. Definitely in the 'something else' category, and I can well see that some visitors may find it somewhat over the top. Finished with oriental rugs and crystal port and sherry decanters in the public rooms, guests are provided the highest level of comfort surrounded by the best of the African wilderness. Perched on the rim of the caldera, each room - and each bathroom - possesses a sweeping view over the "eighth natural wonder" of the world. The view from Tree Lodge is particularly good, especially from the outdoor table in front of the lodge building. is The rooms, which are all different, are furnished with handcarved antiques and offers a separate seating area, and en-suite bathroom facilities. For many visitors this lodge will be the high point of any trip to Tanzania.
SOPA LODGES
NGORONGORO SOPA LODGE
The Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge is an impressive lodge, spread out along the uppermost rim of the Ngorongoro Crater, with large, well-equipped rooms all with breathtaking views of the crater floor far below. Several of the rooms cater for handicapped persons. It has an imposing lobby and dining room/observation deck. The Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge is the only tourist development on the eastern rim of the crater and thus offers its guests unique and spectacular views down into the crater floor and of the sunsets over the western horizon. The Sopa Lodge has the best access of any of the Ngorongoro lodge to the crater - a gently sloping two-way road leads into and out of the crater, so a crater safari from this lodge begins within ten minutes of leaving the lodge. With an altitude of 2,375 metres (7,800 feet) the lodge experiences cool and even cold weather, especially during the winter months of June and July when temperatures can get as low as 10' C or 50' F. Rain can normally be expected between November and May. The evenings and early mornings can be cool and sometimes cold so we recommend sweaters and light jackets, bearing in mind that the temperatures down in the crater itself are always a lot warmer than those on the rim. All suites are centrally heated and the bar and dining room feature large log fires in the evenings. Opened in 1992, the lodge can accommodate 190 guests in 92 suites, each with wall-to-wall carpeting, central heating, a private lounge with a mini bar, a bedroom with two queen size beds and ample room for a third, an en-suite bathroom with shaver sockets and a hair dryer, and a private solarium which offers stunning views either down into the crater floor below or of the setting sun over the western horizon. The lodge has a swimming pool which is situated on the very edge of the crater itself.SERENGETI SOPA LODGE
The pool at the Tarangire Sopa Lodge The Serengeti Sopa lodge is located in the Nyarboro Hills in the south west of the Serengeti National Park and is the only tourism development in this section of the Park. Year round water and the acacia woodland in this area create an ideal environment for the wide variety of wildlife seen in the immediate vicinity of the lodge. Being situated on the slopes of the hills the lodges offers magnificent views over the 14,763sq km (5,200sq. mile) expanse of the Serengeti National Park, Tanzania's largest wildlife conservation area. With an altitude of 1,615 metres (5,300 feet) and being located in the hills the lodge enjoys cooling breezes. Although for most of the year the temperatures are high, the rains in November and December, and in April and May bring a welcome relief to the dry plains. Only the lightest of clothes are recommended although a light sweater might be needed for early mornings and evenings. The atmosphere of the lodge might encourage guests to wear more formal attire in the evenings while swimwear is a must by the pool. The double size pool offers a refreshing interlude between game drives as well as wonderful views over the rolling plains of the Serengeti.
TARANGIRE SOPA LODGE
Completing the Northern Tanzania safari circuit the Tarangire Sopa lodge, built as a 'low profile' structure, nestles into a wooded hillside valley overlooking Tarangire Hill. Tarangire Sopa Lodge is the only luxury 'hotel-like' lodge in Tarangire. Like the other Sopa Lodges, it has very spacious rooms with good views over the bush; as well as a pleasant lounge and restaurant. The unique swimming pool which is located at the edge of a rocky gorge has its own bar and snack kitchen and offers a refreshing interlude between game drives.
PROPERTIES IN THE KARATU AREA
Of the properties situated in the Karatu area (a good choice for an over-night stop en route to the Crater or the Serengeti), there are two that I can highly recommend, namely Plantation Lodge and Gibb's Farm.
Plantation Lodge has a good range of accommodations, and it appeared to be very well managed. I was particularly impressed with one of their recent additions, a 'stand-alone' mini-lodge with its own separate dining room and several rooms in two wings.
Gibb's Farm is deservedly known for its great cooking and having enjoyed several meals there, I can certainly attest to that fact. Breakfast, complete with a bottomless cup of coffee grown on the estate, was followed by a walk up to the waterfall passing through a wonderful forest, part of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. The light was poor, so we did not find too many birds, but it was nevertheless a very interesting outing and a pleasant change from having been cooped up in a vehicle for the previous several days. Lunch was superb: in addition to a fabulous watercress soup, I enjoyed the broccoli quiche, and helped myself to a selection of imaginative salads and freshly baked bread, local honey and preserves. What luxury! The rooms at Gibb's Farm are functional and rather plain, sparsely decorated with items reflecting the indigenous cultures. It is more in keeping with the ambience of East Africa of yesterday, than the modern, edgy 'canvas & khaki' feel of the new generation of safari camps.
KIRURUMU CAMP, LAKE MANYARA
I also inspected Kirurumu Tented Camp at Lake Manyara. It was nothing fancy, but with its comfortable en tents, with nice views of Lake Manyara, it is an alternative to hotel-type accommodation in the Manyara area. Each of the 20 tents is secluded and spacious. They all have a cooling thatch and deck style verandah, with plenty of shade, to enjoy morning coffee or an evening drink. All tents are insect proof with modern ensuite bathrooms, hot and cold running water, soft lighting and flush toilets. The spacious bar/lounge looked quite inviting.TARANGIRE AREA PROPERTIES
Room complete with mosquite netting; Treetops Lodge, Tarangire. The Tarangire river attracts animals to its banks during the dry season, making it one of the best places to visit during the dry months of June through November. At this time of the year elephants, wildebeest, zebra, eland, giraffe and buffalo can be seen at pools in the river. When the rains come in late October, the animals migrate out of the park North to the Serengeti, leaving only the resident waterbuck, warthog, impala, and giraffe behind. Near Tarangire, we inspected the new Treetops Lodge, an interesting mix of very large 'tree-top' and conventional thatched rooms, making creative use of local wood and other material. The giant tree houses have been built on platforms amongst a cluster of Baobab, mopani and wild fig trees. Each en suite unit has a private verandah and lounge area, with sweeping views over the Tarangire Conservation area. The Baobab Bar is built around a huge old Baobab where guests can enjoy cocktails or watch the impressive Tarangire sunsets. There is a pool. Visitors not solely bent on game-viewing will enjoy this lodge for its seclusion, walking, night drives & mountain biking. It is very much 'out of the way' and until such time as the camp can gain better (closer) access to Tarangire NP, game-drives from Treetops will be a rather arduous endeavor.
Compared with any of the Tarangire properties, the Tarangire Safari Lodge has a much superior view, but it left much to be desired in terms of accommodation. The lounge, dining room and reception area had a decidedly 'tired' look to it, and seemed desperately in need of refurbishment. I do not consider the tent arrangement to be acceptable at all, the shabby-looking tents being very close to each other, all in one long, boring row. There are some 'rondavel' type bungalow on the outer edges of the camp which are much nicer than the tents.
ARUSHA ACCOMMODATION
In and around Arusha there is a wide range of accommodation choices:
Dik-Dik Lodge: This Swiss managed establishment appeared to be spotless and well-maintained. Opened in 1990, the hotel has 18 double suites, all with mini-bars and modern amenities. The Dik-Dik Lodge is situated in beautiful grounds, with a swimming pool, at the foot of Mount Meru.
Mountain Village Lodge has great views of Mt. Kilimanjaro and overlooks a lake. Definitely a superior setting and a reputation for good food. Moivaro Coffee Plantation: this interesting new Dutch-managed lodge also has a superb setting with well-equipped spotless rooms.
Safari Spa: Situated in a valley between Kilimanjaro and Mt. Meru, the Safari Spa is the ultimate polo retreat. This exclusive and very private spa is geared to international standards, offering a variety of activities for both players and non-players in beautiful natural surroundings. The fully equipped fitness center offers a challenging workout and the sauna, steam room, jacuzzi and the outdoor pool provide pampering at its very best. The deluxe accommodations consist of poolside cottages decorated in 'Out of Africa' style. Healthy homemade meals are prepared to individual tastes.OTHER PROPERTIES
Early evening at Ndutu Lodge, with the accommodation units in the background. After dinner guests gather around the campfire. TAHI Lodges at Lobo & Seronera: The various TAHI properties are basic but functional, with nice common areas including lounge and restaurant. They also have very good locations. Lobo Lodge is built entirely from wood and glass amid the rough contours of an enormous rocky headland to the north of Serengeti. It blends perfectly with its surroundings. From the bar and lounge, the lodge offers excellent views over the plains and bushy savannah crossed by herds of buffalo and elephants. Seronera Wildlife Lodge is ideally located at the heart of the Serengeti plains, on the edge of the Seronera River. It is built on a typical Serengeti kopje, offering 75 en suite guest rooms.
Ndutu Lodge has a great location in the southern short-grass plains of the Serengeti. Although the lodge is quite atmospheric, having retained the character of an old hunting camp, the accommodation is somewhat barrack-like , consisting of unimaginative semi-detached bungalows strung out in a row. The food was not bad; if somewhat plain. On the night we stayed there, we enjoyed a pepper-steak, two vegetables and very good mashed potatoes. The highlight of the meal was observing a semi-tame genet clambering around on the rafters of the dining room.
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